Your Very Next Step newsletter for April/May 2009
“In India, I found a race of mortals living upon the Earth, but not adhering to it, inhabiting cities, but not being fixed to them, possessing everything, but possessed by nothing”
– Apollonius Tyanaeus
“Never look down to test the ground before taking your next step; only he who keeps his eye fixed on the far horizon will find the right road.”
– Dag Hammarskjold
The next adventure begins with your very next step.
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*** In this issue:
*** Travel News
*** YVNS “Sport You Must Try” for April/May
*** What’s the most profitable airline in America?
*** What do children say about the ocean?
*** What stupid things do people say to travel agents?
*** Ned visits Abu Dhabi
*** Ned visits India
*** What does a red light mean in India?
*** What do you do with limes and peppers? Why, ward off evil spirits, of course.
*** How do you make a chickoo shake?
*** What’s the only place in Pune to get mawa cake and Shrewsbury biscuits?
*** See Seva Allu Puri, a Bombay specialty, assembled right before your eyes (yes, Ned eats it).
*** The lake with the longest name is apparently spelled wrong on Massachusetts road signs. Who knew?
*** Travel, Outdoor and Adventure Jobs and Volunteer Opportunities
…and much more…and it’s all FREE!!!
*** Why did it take so long to get this issue out to you? Well, I had so much to say. Even now, I have not chronicled my entire trip to Abu Dhabi and India. So I will stop here and add more later because there is soooo much to talk about. A few photos have been posted at www.yourverynextstep.com. More to come.
*** Here’s the YVNS Travel News for April/May:
*** Airlines See Signs Of End Of Decline
April airline traffic reports showed some signs of improvement over March and airline executives pointed to stabilization in revenue and demand declines, as carriers continue to search for the bottom of the business travel recession—which analysts said could lag an economic recovery.
http://www.btnonline.com/businesstravelnews/headlines/frontpage_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1003971433
*** What’s the most profitable airline in the U.S.?
Allegiant Air's prudent ways help it soar amid slump in travel
The little-known Las Vegas carrier is the nation's most profitable: First-quarter profit rose nearly 200% to $28.2 million on revenue of $142.1 million. And that's despite teaser fares as low as $9.
http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-allegiant13-2009may13,0,1298065.story
*** Southwest adds Milwaukee, fourth new 2009 destination despite 'no growth' strategy
Southwest Airlines announced yesterday that it will start service in November or December at Milwaukee, a market targeted for growth this year by rival AirTran Airways.
http://www.atwonline.com/news/story.html?storyID=16681
*** America's Top Rides
Theme parks are bastions of the American ideal of grand excess. And what better way to spend a summer vacation than by touring the best that the country has to offer.
http://www.professionaltravelguide.com/Best-Theme-Parks
*** Holy Toledo! New budget carrier to serve midsize U.S. cities
JetAmerica is planning to launch more than 30 flights in July. The low-cost carrier plans to serve small- and medium-sized cities, such as Toledo, Ohio; Lansing, Mich., and others that have had service cut back by major airlines.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124337412059255903.html?mod=dist_smartbrief
http://www.nj.com/newark/index.ssf/2009/05/next_stop_newark_new_discount.html
http://www.startribune.com/lifestyle/travel/46137737.html?elr=KArksc8P:Pc:UHDaaDyiUiD3aPc:_Yyc:aUU
*** Every Air-Tran flight will be Wi-Fi equipped by Summer 2009!
Pricing for Gogo Inflight Internet service aboard AirTran Airways flights is based on the
length of the flight and type of device:
Laptops:
$9.95 – Flights under 3 hours
$12.95 – Flights over 3 hours
Handheld Devices (iPhone, Wi-Fi Blackberry):
$7.95 regardless of flight length
http://www.everyflight.com/
http://www.gogoinflight.com/
*** Amtrak Inches Closer to On-Track Wi-Fi in Northern California
Bernie Wagenblast send this link to story on Jaunted:
http://www.jaunted.com/story/2009/5/28/84647/7022/travel/Amtrak+Inches+Closer+to+On-Track+WiFi+in+Northern+California
*** One-way AAdvantage rewards:
Use your miles in a variety of award combinations to book a one-way trip, a round trip or a multi-city trip. New One-Way Flex Awards are offered at a one-way mileage rate – exactly half of the MileSAAver® or AAnytime® round-trip rate.
http://www.aa.com/aa/i18nForward.do?p=/urls/flexawards.jsp&anchorLocation=DirectURL&title=flexawards
*** Observation tower:
American Airlines still operates the largest fleet of MD-80s. But on my recent trip through AA’s Miami hub, I didn’t see a single MD-80.
*** We just finished National Safe Boating Week (May 16-22), making this a good time to remind boaters to be safe on the water. First and foremost, boaters need to think about life jackets and plan to wear them. A significant number of boaters who lose their lives by drowning each year would be alive today had they worn their life jackets. There is no excuse to see a child on a boat without a PFD.
*** What children say about the ocean, submitted by Gwyneth Saunders:
She says 9, 12 and 15 are good – especially 15!!
CHILDREN WRITE ABOUT THE OCEAN
1) – This is a picture of an octopus. It has eight testicles.
(Kelly, age 6)
2) – Oysters' balls are called pearls. (Jerry, age 6)
3) – If you are surrounded by ocean, you are an island. If you
don't have ocean all round you, you are incontinent.
(Wayne, age 7)
4) – Sharks are ugly and mean, and have big teeth, just like
Emily Richardson. She's not my friend any more.
(Kylie, age 6)
5) – A dolphin breaths through an asshole on the top of its head.
(Billy, age 8)
6) – My uncle goes out in his boat with 2 other men and a woman
and pots and comes back with crabs.
(Millie, age 6)
7) – When ships had sails, they used to use the trade winds to
cross the ocean. Sometimes when the wind didn't blow the sailors
would whistle to make the wind come. My brother said they would
have been better off eating beans.
(William, age 7)
8) – Mermaids live in the ocean. I like mermaids. They are
beautiful and I like their shiny tails, but how on earth do
mermaids get pregnant? Like, really?
(Helen, age 6)
9) – I'm not going to write about the ocean. My baby brother is
always crying, my Dad keeps yelling at my Mom, and my big sister
has just got pregnant, so I can't think what to write.
(Amy, age 6)
10) – Some fish are dangerous. Jellyfish can sting. Electric
eels can give you a shock. They have to live in caves under the
sea where I think they have to plug themselves into chargers.
(Christopher, age 7)
11) – When you go swimming in the ocean, it is very cold, and it
makes my willy small. (Kevin, age 6)
12) – Divers have to be safe when they go under the water.
Divers can't go down alone, so they have to go down on each
other.
(Becky, age 8)
13) – On vacation my Mom went water skiing. She fell off when she
was going very fast. She says she won't do it again because water
fired right up her big fat *ss. (Julie, age 7)
14) – The ocean is made up of water and fish. Why the fish don't
drown I don't know.
(Bobby, age 6)
15) – My dad was a sailor on the ocean. He knows all about the
ocean. What he doesn't know is why he quit being a sailor and
married my mom.
(James, age 7)
*** The bald eagles at the Norfolk Botanical Garden are on camera (the chicks are getting big!). Check out the Eagle Cam:
http://www.wvec.com/cams/eagle.html
*** From Larry Bearfield:
Airport Ticket Agents…unbelievable calls received by a
Washington, DC airport ticket agent offers some examples:
1.. I had a New Hampshire Congresswoman ask for an aisle seat so that her hair wouldn't get messed up by being near the window.
(On an airplane!)
2. I got a call from a candidate's staffer, who wanted to go to Capetown, S.A. . While I started to explain the length of the flight and the passport information, she interrupted me with, ''I'm not trying to make you look stupid, but Capetown is in Massachusetts ” Without trying to make her look stupid, I calmly explained, ''Cape Cod is in Massachusetts, Capetown is in South Africa.''
Her response – click.
3.. A senior Vermont Congressman called, furious about a Florida package we did. I asked what was wrong with the vacation in Orlando.
He said he was expecting an ocean-view room.
I tried to explain that was not possible, since Orlando is in the middle of the state. He replied, 'Don't lie to me, I looked on the map and Florida is a very thin state!'' (OMG)
4. I got a call from a lawmaker's wife who asked, ''Is it possible to see England from Canada ?'' I said, ''No.'' She said, ''But they look so close on the map. (OMG, again!)
5. An aide for a cabinet member once called and asked if he could rent a car in Dallas. When I pulled up the reservation, I noticed he had only a 1-hour layover in Dallas. When I asked him why he wanted to rent a car, he said, ''I heard Dallas was a big airport, and we will need a car to drive between gates to save time.'' (Aghhhh)
6. An Illinois Congresswoman called last week. She needed to know how it was possible that her flight from Detroit left at 8:30 a.m., and got to Chicago at 8:33 a.m. I explained that Michigan was an hour ahead of Illinois, but she couldn't understand the concept of time zones. Finally, I told her the plane went very, very fast, and she bought that.
7. A New York lawmaker called and asked, ''Do airlines put your physical description on your bag so they know whose luggage belongs to whom?'' I said, 'No, why do you ask?'
She replied, ''Well, when I checked in with the airline, they put a tag on my luggage that said (FAT), and I know I'm overweight but I think that's very rude!'' After putting her on hold for a minute, while I looked into it (I was dying laughing), I came back and explained the city code for Fresno, CA is (FAT – Fresno Air Terminal), and the airline was just putting a destination tag on her luggage.
8.. A Senator's aide called to inquire about a trip package to Hawaii . After going over all the cost info, she asked, ''Would it be cheaper to fly to California, and then take the train to Hawaii?''
9. I just got off the phone with a freshman Congressman who asked, “How do I know which plane to get on?'' I asked him what exactly he meant, to which he replied, ''I was told my flight number is 823, but none of these planes seem to have numbers on them.''
10. A lady Senator called and said, ''I need to fly to Pepsi-Cola, Florida. Do I have to get on one of those little computer planes?'' I asked if she meant fly to Pensacola, FL on a commuter plane. She said, ''Yeah, whatever, smart butt!''
11. A senior Senator called and had a question about the documents he needed in order to fly to China . After a lengthy discussion about passports, I reminded him that he needed a visa. 'Oh, no I don't. I've been to China many times and never had to have one of those..'' I double checked and sure enough, his stay required a visa. When I told him this he said, ''Look, I've been to China four times and every time they have accepted my American Express!''
12. A New Mexico Congress woman called to make reservations, ''I want to go from Chicago to Rhino, New York ..'' I was at a loss for words. Finally, I said, ''Are you sure that's the name of the town?'' ''Yes, what flights do you have?'' replied the lady. After some searching, I came back with, ''I'm sorry, ma'am, I've looked up every airport code in the country and can't find a Rhino anywhere.' ''The lady retorted, ''Oh, don't be silly! Everyone knows where it is. Check your map!''
So I scoured a map of the state of New York and finally offered, ''You don't mean Buffalo, do you?'' The reply?
''Whatever! I knew it was a big animal.''
Now you know why the Government is in the shape that it's in! Could anyone be this DUMB?
*** The April YVNS sport Ned has never heard of:
DonkeyBall:
http://www.greenmountaindonkeyball.com/howitworks.htm
http://www.dairylanddonkeyball.com/
http://www.donkeyball.com/
*** Keep up with getting around:
Bernie Wagenblast's Transportation Communications Newsletter, a free daily e-mail publication which provides news and information related to all aspects of communications in the transportation field. This includes a wide variety of topics such as: public and community relations, ITS (intelligent transportation systems), traveler information, outreach, and transportation operations. All modes of transport are included. If you have questions please contact Bernie Wagenblast, the newsletter's editor, at i95berniew@aol.com. Archives of the TCN are located on Yahoo Groups while distribution is handled via Google Groups. To subscribe, please send a blank e-mail to: TCNL-subscribe@googlegroups.com.
*** Ned’s travel to the U.A.E. and India:
My cab driver from home to Dulles airport, Tony, always has wisdom to share. “Three religions come from the Middle East. But look at the Middle East. There is no peace.”
My flight from Dulles to Doha was nearly 12 hours, but I slept after dinner and woke up somewhere over Europe. The flight flew over snow-capped Alps, snow-capped mountains in Turkey and snow-capped mountains in Syria (yes, Syria). It was late afternoon when we arrived at Doha. Many other flights arrived at the same time. Even if you were transferring from one flight to another, you had to pass through a carry-on inspection and x-ray. Then, you had to do it again at the departure gate. Even on the short flight to Abu Dhabi I was served a hot sandwich.
At Abu Dhabi, passport control was pleasant and easy. As I waited for my bags I stood near a group a Etihad flight attendants also awaiting their bags. These flight attendants have these really neat scarves that are attached to their hats (http://www.airwaysmag.com/channel/images/coach_etihad/crew_members.jpg). One was giving another a back rub, and I found myself watching this intently. There were African, European, Middle Easter and Indian stewardesses. They were stunningly beautiful.
At Abu Dhabi I needed a hot cup of coffee (yes, they have Starbucks) and some dirham. I took a cab to the Crowne Plaza, checked in and even though it was very late, took a little stroll. At 10 p.m. people were getting a haircut. I ignored the Burger King, Pizza Hut and Baskin Robbins, and stopped into a very clean Chinese fast food restaurant called ChowKing (well lit, with pleasant – if not obsequious – uniformed staff) and grabbed a quick dinner, went back to my room and crashed. On Sunday morning I went to church, something that is somewhat limited in the Arab world. The attendees were mostly Filipino and Indian. One woman standing in the back had braided hair down to her thigh. I wondered how long it would be if it was unbraided.
On Sunday afternoon I visited Hwee Suan Ong at her office and then we went to the Yacht Club in the Intercontinental Hotel to meet with a group of communicators for a roundtable discussion. Suan and I met up later for dinner at the Lebanese Flower restaurant. I had the mixed grill (that’s not what they called it, but you get the idea). Suan had the pigeon. I made the better choice, we agreed. We ate outside, and all of the restaurant’s tables were packed.
I met up with Ranjit Rai on Monday evening and we went across the street to a shwarma place that he recommended. “It’s very clean,” he told me. But I think this is where the chain reaction began that resulted in my losing ten pounds by the time I got home.
The IQPC conference was interesting. There was a very lively discussion, which sometimes doesn’t take place at these conferences if the attendees do not engage, ask questions, and make comments. In this case they did. And there were a lot of people who could speak from knowledge and experience. Piracy was the topic on everybody’s minds.
On Tuesday evening Suan introduced me to her salsa dancing partners.
On Wednesday afternoon I spent some time in the business lounge at the hotel and then took a cab to the airport and checked in with Etihad in their Coral Economy service. Check in was easy and pleasant, as was immigration and security. In the gate area I watched a woman talking continuously on two cell phones that didn’t stop ringing.
The overnight flight on Etihad is not crowded. The two people sitting next to me move to the back of the plane to spread out. I was one of three non-Indians. I chose the fish tagine and decided it was just okay. On Etihad, however, you get real silverware, just like in the old days on U.S. airlines. Etihad aspires to be a five-star carrier, as rated by SkyTrax. I believe that one criterion for 5-star selection is the youthful beauty of the female cabin attendants. U.S. airlines used to dismiss stewardesses if they put on a pound or two, and wouldn’t hire you if you weren’t pretty in the first place. Age is no longer a limitation on U.S. carriers. You see no grandmothers on overseas airlines like Qatar or Emirates, with young flight attendants that come from Malaysia, Egypt, India, Vietnam, Kenya, Ethiopia, Thailand and other exotic worlds where a job like this is a dream for many. Etihad has flight attendants from 75 countries, in fact. The A320 is showing a Bollywood movie which I choose not to watch, but one of the cabin speakers remain on and even with my sound canceling headphones am annoyed by it.
Upon arrival in Mumbai, I proceed through immigration, where I am welcomed. I waited for the bags, and watched some guy who was bringing liquor into the country find that his big duffle bags were full of broken bottles, and I watched him pour his luggage down a drain. I had nothing to declare, but had to wait in a sort of line, more of a gaggle of people push their carts towards the nothing-to-declare X-ray scanner, where our bags are checked for God-knows-what. It’s 3 a.m. Everyone is tired. Many people just came in on a flight from some place where “luggage” hasn’t been invented yet, and so had huge bundles, wrapped in blankets and intricately tied with something. Maybe there were live animals in those bundles, because they were all in a big hurry and had to push in front of me. A man in a white uniform asks me if I have something to declare. I say no, and he looks at me as if to say “Well, why are you in this line,” but then thought of the other side of the issue and looked perplexed, as if he was thinking “We better be sure to X-ray your stuff because you don’t look to trusting.” Then, as if overcome by the moment, he says, “Okay, you can go.” And I bypassed the people with the tied up bundles. There seem to be armies of uniformed airport workers, airline employees, immigration and customs people, and many other bureaus and administrations I don’t even know about, most standing around. I changed some dollars to rupees, including some small bills, knowing I would need to show my gratitude for the person I was told would be coming to get me at this late – or early – hour. I pass through another checkpoint where I must fill out some stub of a form I was given earlier. Outside of the terminal it seems chaotic. But I find the man holding a sign with my name on it, and I am very glad to see him. To tell the truth, this was one of the few moments of the trip I had been apprehensive about.
Mr. Moolya and I leave the airport and he races through the night. Much of the buildings and structures I see, even right next to the airport, are in sad repair or nearing collapse. There is trash every where, like in Catania when the sanitation workers go on strike (I know, I know, that never happened with Mussolini). There are lots of people out and on the road in the middle of the night, and some cars have their headlights on. I imagine how bad it must be in broad daylight and full traffic. I see lots of bodies stretched out on the sidewalk (sleeping I presume). Black and yellow cabs and auto rickshaws (three-wheeled enclosed motor scooters) are lined up, ready to attack the next day. They have red lights on Mumbai streets, just like in the U.S., but it doesn’t mean the same thing. I’m not sure what a red traffic light means here. I’ll have to ask someone. Our drive is mostly along city streets. There isn’t what I would call a motorway between the big airport and downtown Mumbai.
Finally we arrive at the guest house at Harbour Heights. Rajesh, the caretaker, welcomes me. My room has a/c, but I ask about internet or wireless and get a confused look. I try to see if I am within range of a wireless signal and find that none exists. The a/c is loud, and blows right down on my head. I can’t figure out how to get my adaptor plug set to go from my plug to the wall socket. Even now at night I hear many birds outside. There’s one in particular that sounds like a big man kneeling on the rib cage of a boy, you know that sound you make when somebody gives you a body slam? I get up a few hours later and take a shower. I note later that the little gauge on the small hot water heater would have told me what I had just learned, that I was out of hot water (Note to self: Turn on hot water heater before taking shower). The view from my window includes a colorful fish market on a stone pier. I might check that out later. Breakfast is quite a production. I am given five newspapers, including the Hindustan Times, Times of India, Mumbai Mirror, Bombay Times and Economic Times. Breakfast is an Indian omelet, toast and cornflakes. Three people watch me eat. I ask for coffee and watch CNBC, where people in a monotone discuss the fact that inflation is up just a little bit today, and the Rupee is down just a little bit.
I walk out of the Harbour Heights compound, out past the fire brigade and around the naval quarters to the Sassoon Docks, where a busy fish market is underway. Men and women are sorting fish, shredding ice, peeling shrimp, and calling out noisily. It smells like a fish market in Mumbai would smell. The women are dressed in bright sulwars and saris. The boats are topped with colorful pennants. There are many shrines along the sidewalks, adorned with flowers, like marigold petal leis.
On the way back I see a young boy crying as he gets his haircut on the sidewalk. I learn later that this is called an “Italian haircut.” This refers to the word “ita,” which means “pile of bricks.” Seated upon couple of bricks on the sidewalk is where you get the “Ita-lian haircut.”
Back in my room, a short while later I can look out and see that the market is virtually empty. I can also see a big smokestack rising from a sort of industrial ruins. The tall chimney has a tree growing out of the top.
Bombay is an historical crossroads. The world has visited here many times, and left some it of itself behind. There was a small Jewish community that has remained here for centuries. It was targeted by the 26/11 attackers. Bombay is also home to a Parsi community, who emigrated here from Persia long ago. They are Zoroasters, and Bombay is home to more Zoroastrian temples than any other place (40% of them are here). “Four of the ten highest grades of fire (Atash Baram) in the world are housed in fires houses in Mumbai,” reports the Times of India.
On Thursday evening Capt. Vijay Shivdasani takes me to his house to meet some of the members and friends of the Indian Maritime Foundation. “Vijay, may I ask you a personal question?”
He nods.
“What does a red light mean in India?”
I told him about my cab ride very early that morning, where my driver raced through every intersection without so much as a hesitation or a glance.
“That’s a difficult question,” he says with resignation. “It is a very good question. Of course, everywhere in the world, a red light means stop.” He pauses. “But this is India.”
At his house I make a presentation for the benefit of those who joined us and then we have a very lively discussion. It was supposed to be a one-hour session, but while some had to leave, most stayed. It broke up after three hours. The presentation was covered by Sarosh Manna, the defence correspondent with Business India, which is India’s largest business magazine.
Vijay and his wife, Suchita, took me to the Bombay Gymkhana, a private club with a very long tradition (http://www.bombaygymkhana.com/index.asp), where we met up with some friends and ate in the very busy lounge. We ordered a steady steam of goodies from the bar menu, and my hosts had fun getting me to try different Indian dishes. I had kulfi (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kulfi) for desert, which is a kind of ice cream on a stick that is also served in a bowl after being cut up from the popsicle stick.
(Here’s the recipe, but I don’t think mine had cool whip in it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKl1aMBCDUk)
On Friday, Bish Mukherjee came in from Chennai, and Elizabeth Zavier joined up from Bangalore and they met me at the guest house at Harbor Heights. Rajesh and my caretakers made breakfast for all of us. Elizabeth ordered lassi for me, along with Poha, a sort of potato pancake made with “half beaten rice,” coriander, mustard, onion, salt and turmeric powder. http://indianfood.about.com/od/sidesandsalads/r/poha.htm. It can also be served with chutney either made out of coconut or nuts. Lassi is a very popular beverage in India, a sort of yogurt smoothie, served slightly sweet or slightly salty (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lassi).
Elizabeth’s daughter decortated her hand with henna. See http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/24/4198910.html.
We all had a good look around Mumbai, then went shopping at a place Bish was familiar with. We stopped at the Taj Mahal hotel, which was a major target of the 26/11 terrorists. Security was uber-tight. You had to pass through three metal detectors before you could buy a cup of coffee in the café.
Bish had originally planned an elaborate conference for this day, but the planned had to be scaled back because of the economic downturn. We met with a group of communicators at Tata Chemicals. Later, a smaller group of us went out to dinner.
Bish left early Saturday to return to Chennai. Rajesh arranged for a car and driver to take us around for the day. Our driver’s name was Prince. Our cab was not air conditioned. Our first stop was the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple. Jains comprise just one percent of the Indian population, but have contributed greatly to Indian culture. Jains go to their temples to respect Tirthankaras who have transcended the cycle of rebirths and become examples for all to follow. Jainism teaches that you harm no living thing. “Live and let others live.” We took off our shoes and were able to walk all around without disturbing the worshippers. In fact, several took time to answer questions. They carried prayer beads. Occasionally, upon completion of prayers, a worshipper would ring a bell.
http://pluralism.org/resources/tradition/essays/jain5.php
An older woman was selling small bundles of limes and hot peppers strung together (http://www.nedsjotw.com/_photos/100_0633.JPG). These are to be placed over the doorway to ward off evil spirits. That’s why there’s one hanging over the entrance to the 7-11 right here in my neighborhood.
Later, I watched a few street vendors making Seva Allu Puri, a Bombay specialty. One gentleman was furiously cutting onions in to very fine pieces, along with some other things he had already diced. The other vendor places some rice crackers on a plate and started heaping layers of ingredients on top of the crackers. There was onion, mango, tomato, coriander, puffed rice, and some sauce. It was delicious.
http://www.nedsjotw.com/blog/India/_archives/2009/5/8/4179390.html
http://www.nedsjotw.com/blog/India/_archives/2009/5/8/4179392.html
http://www.nedsjotw.com/blog/India/_archives/2009/5/8/4179395.html
http://www.nedsjotw.com/blog/India/_archives/2009/5/8/4179396.html
A third gentleman tied to sell us peacock feather fans throughout the impromptu puri assembly demonstration. He was persistent, but what was I going to do with peacock fans?
Here are some good pictures of what we saw in Mumba (Not my pics, but good examples of where we were and what we saw)i:
http://www.mego.in/cityguide/viewallcomments.aspx?CG=7&C=143
(More about Mumbai in the next installment.)
Sunday 26 April
On Sunday, Elizabeth joined me and we went to church. It was the children’s mass. One boy came in the middle of the service. The priest interrupted himself to tell him (and everyone else) “You’re late. Very bad.” Elizabeth also stopped at the Police Station to thank them for their help the evening before. (That’s part of the story to be told in the next installment.)
I was in a cab on Sunday. There was a little girl who looked just like Latika from “Slumdog Millionaire,” and was begging at the car window just like Latika. The window was open. When I wouldn't make eye contact she spit at me. Then a little boy ran up and starting singing jingle bells.
I waited patiently in the crowded train station for the Deccan Queen (Victoria Station was another 26/11 target). Rajesh shelled out a couple of rupees to accompany me on the platform. I felt competent to get myself on the train, but he didn’t want to chance my getting misplaced. The sign said it would be leaving from Track 11. But as departure time loomed, no train. Finally, I looked around to see a different status board that said my train was at Track 8. We raced down and found my train and car (C2). My name was listed on the computer printout with my seat assignment, which was posted at the door to the car.
The train ride took about three hours. At first we traveled through crowded Mumbai. I saw rail yards where kids were playing cricket, which again reminded me of “Slumdog Millionaire,” where the kids were playing on the airfield. Gradually it became more rural and agrarian. Still, there were a lot of people living in very meager shelters in many places along the tracks. Vendors came up and down the car selling tea, coffee, snacks and other things of which I did not understand. Since I didn’t know what they were, I didn’t take a chance. By the time we passed through the mountains to the other side it was dark, and I could see very little outside of the tinted windows.
Upon arrival at Pune, Rajeev Kumar was right there to meet me as promised. We then went out of the station, which was teeming with travelers, to meet Rajan Vir. We then convoyed through Pune to the Royal Connaught Boat Club, where I would be staying. It was “movie night.” While we had dinner, everyone else was outside watching Delhi 6 with Abhishek Bachchan (whose famous father, Amitabh Bachchan, played himself in “Slumdog Millionaire”).
The website (http://www.boatclubpune.com/aboutus.htm) says the club is located on the “enchanting banks of rivers Mula & Mutha.” The rivers are not used much any more for boating or swimming. There are 300 million Indians without access to toilets, and another 475 million Indians with only partial access. This is where the rivers come in. Compare that with a total population of 300 million Americans, and then ask yourself how many toilets you have in your home.
27 April Pune
Rajeev and I check out the Osho Ashram Meditation Resort, a spiritual center built by the Rajneesh Shree Baghwan. (http://www.osho.com/Main.cfm?Area=MedResort&Language=English). If you want to visit Osho you need to get an HIV test.
He is best known for creating a sprawling compound in Oregon where people came for enlightenment and lots of sex, and to see him drive by in one of his many Rolls Royces.. We miss the morning tour and have other things planned for the afternoon. So we settle on a couple of photos to prove we were there, as I’m sure lots of other gawkers like us do everyday.
After Osho, Rajeev and I head down town for a little shopping and sightseeing. I pick up a few trinkets, including the lightest of silk carves for my girls, and some beautiful elephant ties for myself and Tom. We step across the street to a shop to get a milkshake. Rajeev gets lychee, and I get a chikoo shake. Chickoo is also called sapodilla, or sapota, or chicle, the white gummy stuff that white gummy chicklets were made of and may still be for all I know, and a bunch of other names
Here’s how to make a chickoo shake:
Chickoo Milk Shake
Ingredients:
4 cubed chickoos
1/2 litre milk
6-8 tsp granulated sugar
Ice cubes
Method:
Remove skin and seeds from chickoos and cut into cubes.
Put cubed chickoos with sufficient milk in a blender and blend until a smooth paste forms.
Add rest of the milk, sugar, ice cubes and blend for another 15-20 seconds
Serve chilled in tall glasses.
My chickoo shake was just 30 rupees.
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205413.html
(My research also turned this up:
Sapodilla grows to 3-4 m tall. It is wind-resistant and the bark is rich in a white, gummy latex called chicle. The ornamental leaves are medium green and glossy. They are alternate, elliptic to ovate, 7-15 cm long, with an entire margin. The white flowers are inconspicuous and bell-like, with a six-lobed corolla.
The fruit is a large ellipsoid berry, 4-8 cm in diameter, very much resembling a smooth-skinned potato and containing 2-5 seeds. Inside, its flesh ranges from a pale yellow to an earthy brown color with a grainy texture akin to that of a well-ripened pear. The seeds are black and resemble beans, with a hook at one end that can catch in the throat if swallowed.
The flavor is exceptionally sweet and very tasty, with what can be described as a malty flavor. The unripe fruit is hard to the touch and contains high amounts of saponin, which has astringent properties similar to tannin, drying out the mouth.
The sapodilla trees yield fruit twice a year, though flowering may continue year round. The fruit has a high latex content and does not ripen until picked. Some are round and some are oval with pointed ends.
Sapodillas
Other Names
Sapodilla is known as chikoo (“à¤sिà¤.à¥à¤.à¥,” or “chiku,” “à¤sà¥?à¤.à¥,,”) and sapota in India, sofeda in eastern India and Bangladesh, sawo in Indonesia, há»”ng xiêm (lit. “Siamese persimmon”) or xa pô chê in Vietnam, lamoot (ละมุด) in Thailand and Cambodia, sapodilla in Guyana sapathilla or rata-mi in Sri Lanka, nìspero in Colombia, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Dominican Republic and Venezuela, nìpero in Cuba, Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic, dilly in The Bahamas, naseberry in the rest of the Caribbean, sapoti in Brazil, and chico sapote in Hawaii, southern California and southern Florida. In Kelantanese Malay, the fruit is called “sawo nilo” which is closer to the original name than the standard Malay “ciku”.)
In this same place, when you order coffee or tea to go, they wrap it in plastic and staple it for you. See http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205415.html
We pass through some alleys and onto another thoroughfare to the famous Kayani Bakery.
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205418.html
Rajeev insists I bring home some Shrewsbury biscuits, and picks up a mawa cake for each of us.
(Turns out it was a good thing we did, because according to this, I would have been ion the doghouse if I had neglected my duties:
http://potoba.blogspot.com/2008/10/kayani-bakery-and-mawa-cake.html.)
Outside, a vendor lets me try a neera, a fruit related to a coconut and grows in clusters on palms near the coast. It tastes like young coconut, too.
Here, try some:
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205423.html
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205428.html
I point to a legume that has a reddish color to it and call them soy beans (they look like edamame, only with a reddish tinge), and am corrected by a woman who tells me they are Indian tamarinds. I see a man in uniform, and he can tell I am someone of importance. We exchange salutes in front of the tamarinds.
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205430.html
Later, Rajeev buys a neera drink from a vendor. It’s cloying sweet drink, like coconut water, cool but not ice cold.
Rajeev takes me to the old fort, a heritage site, once a palace to the Peshawars, and later a base of operations for the British.
Here I am in the fort, and also Rajeev and I together:
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205470.html
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205472.html
(More later on the rest of my visit to Pune and my flight to New Delhi; my visit to Agra; and my presentation at the International Institute of Peace and Conflict Studies.)
May 1, New Delhi and Gurgaon:
I had a driver take me from Defence Colony to Gurgaon, the commercial city outside of Delhi where Genesis Burson Marsteller is located. Sanjay had a flat tire enroute in the inside lane, and I didn't know whether I should risk getting out in traffic or stay where I was. Turns out Sanjay changed the tire in record time and we were on our way. Much of the trip followed the new elevated Metro system currently under construction. This system, I'm told, is ahead of schedule and under budget.
http://www.delhimetrorail.com/index.htm
*** More on Ned's visit in the next edition of Your Very Next Step.
*** I posted this in JOTW a few weeks ago::
I hope to post a full account of my trip to the UAE and India at “Your Very Next Step,” my travel and adventure blog (www.yourverynextstep.com). But here’s a little tidbit:
Elephanta Island (or Gharapuri Island, “The place of caves”) isjust one of the islands in Mumbai Harbour, between Mumba on the west and the Indian mainland on the east. I took the ferry boat out there to see the world famous cave temples, the Elephanta Caves, carved out of solid rock inside the islands caves.
My friends, Elizabeth, and I took the boat from the Gateway of India, next to the Taj Mahal Hotel, known today for the 26/11 attacks. It was a pleasant ride, albeit on a crowded ferry. They charged us a few extra rupees to sit on the upper deck. We perched next to the pilot house. The boat passes ships in the harbor, the Indian Navy's dockyards, where I could see Leanders and Russian destroyers that now serve in the Indian Navy, as well as a petroleum loading facility on one of the islands. It's not the most crowded roadstead I've see, but among the the top ten. We sat with the wind coming towards us. The young girl behind us who got sick managed to spray the rest of the people on the upper deck (and maybe the lower deck, too), but not us.
Once you get off the boat you pay a fee, which is more for foreigners (about ten times more). Then you take a little narrow gauge train down the pier and around towards the little village, and that costs some more money. They you can walk up the 150 steps or so, past the monkeys and the stalls selling shirts, trinkets, even magic tricks, to the top where they charge you again to get into the cave area.
We had taken a late afternoon boat to the island, and were in a hurry so we wouldn't miss the last boat back. But even a short visit to see the first and largest of the caves was worth the trip. These caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, contain Shaivistic high reliefs in stone of Hindu deities important to worshipers of Shiva. The sculptures date to the Silhara kings of the 9th through 13th centuries (810–1260). The temple complex is said to be the abode of Shiva. Imagine that, I was in the abode of Shiva!
The caves had been somewhat destroyed by time and man. Yet they still had a dignity and power about them. One altar in a dark place, upon closer investigation, had a recent offering on it. This is still a sacred place.
This site has some great photos of Elephanta Island and the caves.
http://www.pbase.com/bmcmorrow/mumbaielephanta&page=1
*** Work & Travel In Greece Summer 2009-2010
http://www.jobsabroad.com/listingsp3.cfm/listing/33271
*** Susan Burnell sent me this delightful photo of Springtime in Texas, with the bluebonnets and Indian paintbrushes:
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205478.html
*** Early one morning, my sister told me she was having coffee outside her house in Mount Tremper, smelling the lilacs. I asked her to send me pics, because the lilacs from our houses in Auburndale and Harwich Center are so evocative. I miss them.
http://www.yourverynextstep.com/blog/_archives/2009/5/30/4205481.html
*** Women and girls are the “water haulers” of the world. On average, women and girls in developing countries walk 6 kilometers a day, carrying 20 litres of water, greatly reducing the time they have for other productive work or for girls to attend school.
Sanitation in India, Nepal and Bangladesh, particularly rural sanitation, is a high priority. One study in Bangladesh indicated that a separate toilet could increase the number of girls in school by as much as 15 per cent. These countries also need support to mitigate the deadly effects of arsenic and fluoride contamination of groundwater.
(Source: Unicef)
*** From Bill Rooney:
Mass. lake with 45 letters in its name spelled wrong on road signs,
officials say
04-20-2009 8:44 PM
WEBSTER, Mass. (Associated Press) — Officials have agreed to correct
spelling errors in road signs pointing to a central Massachusetts lake
with a 45-letter name. Lake
Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg in Webster has one of the
world's longest place names. It's been spelled many different ways over
the years. Some locals have given up and simply call it Lake Webster.
But after researching historical spelling combinations, the Telegram &
Gazette of Worcester said local Chamber of Commerce officials agreed
that some signs were wrong. There was an “o” at letter 20 where a “u”
should have been, and an “h” at letter 38 where an “n” should go.
There are many stories and legends about the origin of the Indian name.
One popular myth _ later debunked _ holds that the name translates
roughly to 'You fish on your side, I fish on my side, and nobody fish in
the middle.'
*** Travel/Adventure/Outdoors employment opportunities:
*** From Pat Valdata:
Hi, Ned. Here’s one I just heard about on Facebook:
BIOLOGICAL FIELD TECHNICIANS AND INTERNS NEEDED (10) by the Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory (RMBO) to conduct bird surveys for our Regional Monitoring Program that includes surveys in Wyoming, Arizona, Colorado, South Dakota, North Dakota, New Mexico, Nebraska, Texas, Montana, Oklahoma, and Kansas. RMBO is committed to the conservation of birds and their habitats. Technicians will be expected to attend one of the training workshops in late April through mid May and work through the end of July. The training workshops consist of a 5-day comprehensive training on the protocols conducted by RMBO. The workshops will take place throughout the study area, after which technicians will be required to work independently the majority of the time to conduct bird surveys and complete data entry. The standard work week will be ten days on/four days off. Technicians should be able to identify all western and some eastern birds by sight and sound, and should expect to hike off-trail regularly in steep, rugged terrain, sometimes under difficult conditions. Applications will be accepted through 15 April 2009 but positions will be filled as suitable applicants are found.
Qualifications: Experience with point-counts, western tree and shrub ID, backcountry hiking/backpacking, and navigation (w/ maps, compass, and GPS) is preferred. Primitive camping, often without phone service or facilities, will be required. A valid driver's license, personal vehicle, proof of auto insurance, binoculars, camping gear, a strong work ethic, and enthusiasm are required. Monthly salary of $1700-$2400, plus mileage and some lodging will be reimbursed. Internships are also available for those looking to gain experience.
Please e-mail a cover letter and resume with at least three references to Chris White at chris.white@rmbo.org
*** From Bill Seiberlich:
Media Relations Manager, The Nature Conservancy, Conshohocken, PA
The Nature Conservancy is seeking a Media Relations Manager, Marketing
Resource Center (MRC) – East.
The Media Relations Manager is part of a team of skilled marketing
professionals working within the Marketing Resource Center (MRC) – East.
The Media Relations Manager will work with MRC staff and state, region
and country program staff to develop and implement media strategies that
maximize the Conservancys presence in target markets (with a focus on
the Philadelphia media market), develop new and existing constituencies
and achieve fundraising, public policy, and conservation and science
objectives. Overall, s/he will contribute to the development and
implementation of strategic communications strategies, messages and
materials specifically for The Nature Conservancy (TNC) partner programs
served by the MRC.
The Media Relations Manager reports to the MRC Director, does not
supervise staff, and will sometimes manage outside resources and related
vendors in order to complete projects.
Basic Qualifications:
– Bachelors degree in English, Marketing, Journalism or related field
and a minimum of 5 years related experience or equivalent combination.
– Experience in client and account management.
– Experience writing, editing, proofreading, and with oral
communications.
– Experience with all MS Office suites functions.
THE NATURE CONSERVANCY is an EQUAL OPPORTUNITY EMPLOYER
Contact: To view the entire position description and to apply, please
visit www.nature.org/careers/, click View Positions and search by the
position title and location. All resumes must be submitted through The
Nature Conservancy's online application. A user guide for the online
application is available on our website. Application Deadline is June
10, 2009.
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“India has two million gods, and worships them all. In religion all other countries are paupers; India is the only millionaire.”
– Mark Twain